2. Buen Camino: its light!

   Posted by: aman   in Other

As I finished my coffee, I met Jo from Canada who was finishing her cigarette. She is a fellow writer/editor. ‘I want to visit India.’

‘Two visits, at least,’ I said. ‘South for ashrams and Yoga, north for spirituality.’ I felt strange breaking India down as simply as that.

‘Is it expensive?’ she asked.

‘Not really, let me know when.’ We exchanged email addresses. ‘All that is expensive is the time you can take to make the visit. Keep three months or so for each one.’

‘That vast?’ she asked and smiled.

I continued down the mountainside. Around 5 kms before Porto Marin I was exhausted and toyed with taking a bed in an Albergue, even checked it out. It was nice, but per the road planner I knew I had to move farther. I remembered from my program management classes: the bigger projects get delayed, one day at a time, a few hours at a time. I sat down on a stone wall near fields, other pilgrims crossed me. I massaged my feet and kept going until I reached the town. Once there, I saw two roads going up a hill. I was like, no! A car stopped and a beautiful woman got down. Her man was on the wheel. I asked the woman: English? She replied: French, but I can speak English. I realised the name of a language is also a question of nationhood. She checked with two horsemen and pointed the road to me.

The church in Porto Marin is an elegant flat roofed building. It reminded me of Lorca’s Yerma, her rooted self-belief and quest, standing boldly in the middle of the town formed around it. Federico Lorca did travel and write in Galicia. In the market nearby, between Spanish and English incomprehensibility, a matron guided me to a restaurant that served dinner: bacon and fries – an English breakfast for dinner in a Spanish town. I wondered what does one do with the button shaped bones at the end of the slices of bacon.

The Albergue was nice. Good clean washrooms, a comfortable night and next morning my ankles felt rested. I left my previous day’s T-shirt in the dustbin along with a few more clothes Carry less, I said to myself. It was still dark when I came out to smoke a cigarette. I noticed around 70 per cent of the people had left. I asked a fellow traveller. ‘Where have they gone?’

‘On the Camino.’

‘But it is dark still.’

‘It is light.’

‘It is dark, the sun isn’t up yet.’

‘It is light.’ He said.

To be continued …

For same Santiago pictures see …


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